Wednesday 21 September 2016

Final Days

Tuesday 13th September 2016. 

The bay is calm this morning; rusty fishing trawlers are floating at anchor dwarfed by ships heading into the estuary towards the East part of town ready to unload their cargo.  I watch from my balcony as a small boat sets out across the water towards the opposite coast line, ferrying passengers over to the airport.  In the street below a dog lies curled up in the shade, protected from the early sun’s rays by the overhanging roof of a nearby wooden shack.   A cockerel crows from the yard next door and a chicken struts past the gate, pecking idly at the ground until it erupts into a flurry of flapping wings, barely escaping the wheels of a passing 4 x 4.   Freetown is waking up, it is my last day and I realise the last time that I will look out over this view.  It is time to head home and say goodbye to the city that has charmed me and tested me in so many ways over the last 12 months.


I arrived last September in the midst of severe flooding, a country still at the tail end of an epidemic and struggling to recover, now hit by further devastation.  The hospital faced a major incident, compounded by a staffing crisis, as many doctors were sent to care for displaced families temporarily sheltered in the National Stadium, where all sport had been suspended for the last twelve months.  The hospital coped that day and continued to provide a vital service to the sick and injured patients, as it had done throughout the epidemic, due to dedicated staff and strong team work.

King’s Sierra Leone Partnership had played a significant part in the Ebola response alongside the Ministry of Health and Sanitation and Connaught Hospital and I admit to being a little in awe of some of my team members and Sierra Leone staff that had demonstrated such dedication and courage at the height of the epidemic.  Even now I get emotional when I listen to them discuss some of their experiences, especially my colleague Marta.  Although my main role was focused on developing the Emergency Department, the small team of clinicians were still providing an on-call rota to cover the hospital’s isolation unit.  I remember the butterflies in my stomach and sweat trickling down my forehead the first time that I went through the decontamination process to remove my personal protective equipment.  I was keen to ensure that I followed each of the 25 steps in the process to the letter.

KSLP A&E Team December 2015: Ling, Hedda and myself

King's House residents October 2015


On November 7th, the country was declared Ebola free and although it was to flare again subsequently, this was a momentous day in the history of the country and was a reflection of a collaborative effort between the government of Sierra Leone, the healthcare workers and international organisations to contain the disease.  Effective case management, community engagement and strict infection control practices eventually brought the situation under control and has highlighted the precarious and weak nature of the health system.  It is hoped that one of the positive legacies of this terrible period is a focus on health system strengthening and resilience to deal with emergencies.  Work is already underway as part of the President’s Recovery Plan.  It was humbling to be on the streets amongst the crowds that night and a privilege to play a small role in the subsequent recovery process. 

Candle light vigil 7th November 2015


The main component of my role was to assist in development and strengthening of the Emergency Department at Connaught Hospital, the main government referral centre for the country.  This is an ongoing project that King’s have been involved in since 2013 when the partnership began in-country and the first 6 months were spent working with my dedicated colleague Ling.  Funding had been secured through DfID to refurbish the department in partnership with the hospital staff and management and the aim was to transform what had been the original make-shift isolation unit back into a new fit-for-purpose Emergency and Acute admissions unit.  I learnt a great deal from Ling about how to get things done and I have no doubt that the success to date is due to the work that she did with hospital management, ministry and the team in London developing the project.  In addition, she gave me the job so clearly has an eye for talent!


Without doubt, the most difficult aspect of leaving the UK for a year was saying goodbye to my girlfriend and family.  I have always been very independent and was surprised to find myself struggling with the separation in the first few months; I suspect that this was delayed onset emotional maturity and a stronger appreciation of what is important in the long term.  I spent Christmas in Freetown but returned home for a week in January; although brief, this was a significant week in my life as I found that my sister was pregnant with my first niece and I decided to make plans to propose to my girlfriend.  A month later, in the mountainous jungle of the Peninsula National Park above Sierra Leone’s Atlantic Coast, she made me very happy and said yes.


Christmas Day in Freetown


The week of Alice’s visit in February was a welcome respite before the real hard work began. Ling’s departure coincided with the opening of the new Emergency Department and resuscitation room.   It was the first time that I felt real pressure and responsibility to deliver on a major project for the hospital and organisation that would impact on the health of thousands of patients across the city.  In addition to this, we were launching an extended pilot program to provide emergency free health care so that critically ill patients did not have to wait for family to find money and buy vital medication.  As a result of the careful preparation, the actual move and opening went amazingly smoothly and the staff that did all the hard work appeared far less stressed than I did.
 
A few months later, renovations were also complete on the other side of the department and we were able to complete the work by opening the major trauma and surgical admissions unit.  All this work was carried out in conjunction with local partners and it was immensely satisfying to see the department finished and the care of patients improving as a result of system strengthening in coordination with better facilities and environment.  From a personal point of view, I have developed skills in logistics, building design and plumbing that were never covered in medical school and which I feel will be much more useful in future life than knowledge of the life cycle of a tape worm. 


Rather than winding down over the final couple of months, time seems to have accelerated as I have continued to support the Emergency Department as well as pursue other projects including the development of Early Warning Scores for sick patients with my hard-working intensive care colleague Ruth and some trauma strengthening work with the surgical team.  I briefly took on the role of clinical manager of the team for my last month and gained an insight into the challenges of balancing clinical responsibilities with organisational priorities whilst looking out for the wellbeing of team members- a daunting task for which I was pleased to hand over to a reassuringly capable colleague.

The last week has been about saying goodbye and handing over as well as organising a very wet trip to Bunce Island Monument which enabled some reflection on the history and heritage of the city I have spent the last year in.  I am not someone who enjoys public attention or speech making but I have watched many of my good friends and colleagues say their goodbyes over the last year and each time it got a little more emotional as I knew them more and I became aware that my time was approaching.  So I duly stood and said my farewells, to the hospital staff that I had shared so many experiences with and to my King’s colleagues, some old friends and some new enthusiastic team members. 


Crossing the estuary to Bunce Island and one of the island's former slave fortresses, now being reclaimed by the forest


The highlights of my time in Sierra Leone have been forming relationships with the staff and getting to know and work with so many Sierra Leoneans, who have been warm from the start in their reception, welcoming and ever-friendly, despite my limited ability to learn the Krio language.  It is perhaps clichéd, but true none-the-less, to say that they are an inspiration and their dedication to their work in often challenging circumstances will serve as an example to me for the rest of my career.
 
It is too early to adequately reflect on the enormity of what I have learnt and experienced in the last year but I believe that my future will be shaped and impacted positively from my time in Freetown and I hope that I may maintain my links and return one day to see the results of all the re-building and improvement that is occurring in the country currently.  

Finally embracing African lappa in the KSLP office  



Last day at Connaught Hospital with the team




































Thursday 15th September

I look out onto a different estuary, 3000 miles away.  It is a warm day in Liverpool and the Mersey has a calm blue sheen to its surface.  Life continues in Freetown and it is just another day for my colleagues in the hospital.  For me, it’s a new direction, just as exciting but very different.


If the idea of having your own Sierra Leone experience excites you, why not apply to volunteer with the KSLP team. More info is available at http://kslp.org.uk/get-involved/volunteer/  

Saturday 3 September 2016

R&R

The rain had been heavy overnight, waking me from sleep in the early hours.  The skies were now clearing as the sun’s rays poked through broken cloud, still grey and gloomy in parts.  The path through the catholic mission was beginning to dry as the water evaporated from the surrounding mango trees.  I passed young children playing football on the near-by pitch, the air filled with shouts and laughter and a lady greets me warmly as she walks effortlessly up the hill balancing an improbably large basket on her head.  The road into town is still muddy, motorbikes cautiously ploughing through deep brown puddles on the un-made road, passengers eager to avoid getting their shoes wet.  The mist lifts from the nearby Kambui Hills as the mosque begins to empty after morning prayers.

 

I am in Kenema (300 kms from Freetown) for a weekend of rest and relaxation, staying at the National Pastoral Centre, a seminary for trainee priests and haven of tranquillity to counteract the frenetic streets of the capital.  It is almost time to say goodbye to Sierra Leone so I am keen to visit the Eastern province and explore new territory before I head home.  A hike into the hills is cut short as I am unable to find a guide and the trails are still a little treacherous at the height of rainy season.  I opt instead for a cool beer and some time to reflect on some of my trips away from the city over the last twelve months.  Here are some highlights:

Watching a father and son return from a day’s fishing in the remote Turtle Island archipelago, five hours by boat from Freetown


 
Searching for hippos in Outamba-Kilimi National Park, near the Guinea border


Finding one!


Then the journey back to Freetown, an adventure in itself


Amputee football match in Makeni


After the Sierra Leone marathon, Makeni (I managed the 10k and that was enough)


A 3 day epic to the summit of Mount Bintumani


Cockle Point from Tokeh Beach


Sunset fishing, Banana Island

Engagement at Tacugama, Peninsula National Park